Manipulating a Sloper Sewing Pattern by Adding Fullness: Guide to Adding Pleats, Gathers, and Flare

When it comes to sewing patterns, sometimes you want a little extra "oomph." Whether you're aiming for a more tailored look or a flowing silhouette, adding fullness to your sloper sewing pattern can make all the difference. In this guide, we'll explore three popular ways to add fullness: pleats, gathers, and flare. We'll provide step-by-step instructions and helpful tips along the way so you can achieve that perfect drape or volume in your garments.

Note: Before diving into the guide, it may be helpful to familiarize yourself with sewing terminology such as slopers and grainlines.

1. Introduction

Your sloper is the foundational pattern that serves as the basis for constructing other designs. While it provides an accurate fit, it may lack certain design elements like pleats, gathers, or flare that contribute to your desired style. Fortunately, manipulating your sloper pattern is easier than you think!

By adding fullness through pleats, gathers, or flare, you can transform any basic garment into something extraordinary. Each technique has its unique characteristics that lend themselves well to different fabrics and body types.

2. Adding Pleats

Understanding Pleats

Pleats are folds in fabric that create controlled volume and add texture to your garment. They can be used to add fullness in a structured and precise manner. Depending on the desired effect, there are several types of pleats you can choose from.

Types of Pleats

• Box Pleat: This type of pleat creates two parallel folds that overlap at the center, creating a box-like appearance—ideal for adding fullness while maintaining a tailored look.
• Inverted Pleat: Also known as a kick pleat, an inverted pleat is created by folding fabric towards the inner side. It adds fullness without excess bulk, making it perfect for skirts or pants.
• Knife Pleat: These narrow folded pleats run parallel to each other and face the same direction. Knife pleats create a crisp and streamlined effect when added to garments like skirts or sleeves.
• Sunburst or Sunray Pleat: Originating at a central point, sunburst pleats radiate outward in a fan-like shape. They create dramatic volume while retaining an elegant appearance.
• Accordion Pleats: These are symmetrical pleats that are machine-made knife pleats. The pleats formed by the machine remain permanent even after washing and ironing.
• Kick Pleats: These are a type of inverted pleat that you will find on tight skirts to enable you to be able to walk. When wearing or making a tight skirt below the knee, it will need some kind of pleat or split if you want to take steps that are more than a few inches at a time.
• Mushroom Pleats: These are very narrow pleats like those seen on the underside of a mushroom or the kind you make for smocking.
• Fluted Pleats: These are the same as box pleats, but with the addition of a fold in the center of each pleat. This creates a fluted effect that adds extra volume to the garment.

How to Add Pleats to Your Pattern

1. Determine the location of the pleat(s) on your pattern piece.
2. Mark the fold lines for each pleat using tailor's chalk or fabric pen.
3. Fold along each line following the desired type of pleat (box, inverted, knife, or sunburst).
4. Secure the folds with pins or basting stitches so they stay in place during sewing.
5. Transfer any necessary notches or markings from your original pattern piece onto each fold.
6. Cut out your modified pattern piece along the newly created edges.
7. Proceed with constructing your garment according to the revised pattern.

3. Creating Gathers

What are Gathers?

Gathers in sewing are created by evenly distributing excess fabric to create volume and shape. They provide a soft, flowing look and can be used in various garments such as skirts, sleeves, or bodices.

Types of Gathers

• Single Gathers: Also known as regular gathers, single gathers are created by stitching one or more rows of evenly spaced basting stitches onto the fabric. These stitches are then gently pulled to gather the fabric.
• Double Box Pleat: This type combines pleats with gathers for added fullness and structure. It involves creating two box pleats on either side, with gathers filling the space in between.
• Circular Gathers: Perfect for creating voluminous skirts, circular gathers distribute fabric around the waistline for a flattering fit that drapes elegantly.

Adding Gathers to Your Pattern

1. Decide where you want the gathered area(s) on your pattern piece.
2. Mark the gathering lines using tailor's chalk or fabric pen.
3. Stitch one or more rows of basting stitches along each marked line, leaving long thread tails at both ends.
4. Holding onto both thread tails simultaneously at one end, gently push and pull the fabric to evenly distribute the gathers until they match your desired length and fullness.
5. Pin or baste the gathered fabric in place before stitching it onto other pattern pieces according to your design.

4. Incorporating Flare

The Beauty of Flare

Flare refers to adding width at specific points within a garment to achieve volume and movement. It can give your clothes an elegant drape and help create a flattering silhouette.

Methods for Adding Flare

• A-Line Shape: An A-line shape gradually widens from the waist to the hem, creating a classic and universally flattering silhouette. You can achieve this by subtly tapering your sloper outward along the side seam.
• Godets: Godets are triangular fabric inserts that add flare while maintaining a slimming effect. They can be inserted in seams or as separate panels to create beautiful movement in garments such as skirts or sleeves.
• Pleated Inserts: Adding pleated inserts at strategic points allows for controlled fullness without overwhelming the garment. This technique works exceptionally well for creating flared skirts.

Tips for Perfectly Balanced Flare

• Consider the fabric weight: Lighter fabrics like chiffon may require more flare to achieve the desired effect, while heavier fabrics like denim may need less.
• Test your modifications: Make a muslin sample with your adjusted pattern before cutting into your fashion fabric. This will ensure you're happy with the amount of added flare and make any necessary adjustments beforehand.
• Align grainlines carefully: When adding flared sections or godets, ensure their grainlines match those of neighboring pattern pieces for an even hang.

For a detailed tutorial on adding contouring and flare on Itsostylish.com here

For visual demonstrations on adding flare techniques, check out this helpful YouTube video

5. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q1: Can I use pleats and gathers together in one garment?

A1: Absolutely! Combining pleats and gathers can create unique visual interest and add extra volume where needed. Experiment with different combinations to achieve your desired look.

Q2: Do I need special sewing machine settings for working with pleats or gathers?

A2: No, you can use your regular machine settings for most projects involving pleats or gathers. However, adjusting your stitch length to a longer setting and using basting stitches can make it easier to control the gathering process.

Q3: Can I add fullness to a garment after it has been constructed?

A3: While it is possible to add additional fullness later, it's generally easier and more accurate to modify the pattern before cutting and constructing the garment. This ensures that all design elements work harmoniously together.

Incorporating pleats, gathers, or flare into your sloper sewing patterns allows you to unleash your creativity and add a personal touch to your garments. By following our step-by-step instructions and utilizing authoritative resources, you'll be well on your way to achieving beautifully draped or voluminous designs that turn heads!