Section One: Understanding Pattern Instructions
Before diving into the intricacies of symbol interpretation, it's important to familiarize yourself with the overall structure of a sewing pattern instruction sheet.
I) Fabric Requirements
The fabric requirements section outlines the types and quantities of fabric needed to complete your project successfully.
Typically, fabric requirements indicate yardage (or meterage) for both main and contrasting fabrics if applicable. They also specify whether certain fabrics need to be pre-washed or preshrunk before cutting.
II) Cutting Layouts
The cutting layouts section provides diagrams illustrating how your pattern pieces should be placed on your fabric without wasting any material.
These diagrams often depict various sizes or views in different colors, outlining the placement of each pattern piece and indicating how they should be positioned with respect to the fabric grain.
III) Special Notes and Remarks
Within the special notes and remarks section, you will find important instructions that do not fit under any specific category but are crucial for your sewing success.
This section typically includes information on recommended seam allowances, optional features or variations, interfacing requirements, and any other specific techniques or tools that may be required for construction.
Section Two: Interpreting the Symbol Key
Now that you're comfortable navigating through pattern instructions let's concentrate on deciphering the different symbols commonly found in sewing patterns.
1) Grainline Arrow
The grainline arrow is a crucial symbol found on most pattern pieces. It indicates the direction in which your pattern piece should be aligned with the grain of your fabric.
Sewing patterns are designed to be cut parallel to the selvage edge or straight grain of the fabric. Aligning your pattern piece incorrectly can result in distortion or misshapen garments.
2) Seam Allowance Markings
Seam allowance markings outline the width of fabric that should extend beyond your stitching line when joining two pieces together. These markings ensure accurate alignment and ease of construction.
The most common seam allowance widths are ⅝" (1.5 cm) and ⅜" (1 cm), though some patterns may call for different measurements. Seam allowances are usually marked by solid lines but can also vary with dashes or dots depending on the pattern's complexity.
3) Notches and Dots
Notches and dots serve as guides for aligning multiple pattern pieces during construction. They appear as small triangles or circles extending from the seam allowance line.
Matching notches and dots helps ensure that your garment ends up with the correct shape, fit, and alignment. A missing notch or dot can lead to mismatched pieces and an ill-fitting end result.
4)Stitching lines
These are not generally found on multi-sized patterns, but on single-sized patterns, these sewing machine stitch symbols are represented by dotted lines. Generally, there is no need to transfer these lines onto your fabric. Cutting lines, on the other hand, are represented by a solid line for ...
5) Darts
These are marked with lines or notches and arrows and are marked to show where and in what direction to fold the fabric.
6) Button and buttonholes
The sewing pattern symbols of a long bar with vertical ends represent the size and position of the buttonhole, and a cross is common for the button sewing. The line with end bars indicates buttonhole placement and length of the button.
7) Adjustment lines to lengthen or shorten
Usually shown as two solid, parallel lines, this symbol indicates where best to lengthen or shorten the pattern.
8) Pleats, Tucks, Gathers
These are indicated by double lines, short dashed lines beside a short solid line (or two short solid lines) with an arrow pointing from one to the other, or dots, squares, and other small shapes.
9) Hip and Bust
This circle with two perpendicular lines inside (like a plus sign) represents the hipline and bustline, as well as the waistline and biceps when appropriate for garments.
10) Fold Line
Place to the fold of the fabric.
11) Center Line
The central line of the pattern piece.
Working with Pattern Pieces
Now that you have a good understanding of pattern instructions and symbols let's focus on working directly with the pattern pieces themselves.
I) Transferring Pattern Markings
Pattern markings serve various purposes such as indicating button placement, pocket positions, or pleat folds. It is important to transfer these markings accurately onto your fabric for precise construction.
To transfer pattern markings onto fabric, you can use tailor's chalk, marking pens/pencils specifically designed for fabrics, or even simple thread tacking. Choose a method that suits both your preference and the fabric type you are working with.
II) Matching Notches and Dots
As mentioned earlier, matching notches and dots is crucial in ensuring accurate construction of your garment or textile item. When joining multiple pattern pieces together, aligning these marks will help maintain proper shape and fit throughout the sewing process.
Pay close attention to the match points specified in the stitching sequence provided in your sewing instructions. Pin or baste along these designated points before sewing to ensure precise alignment during construction.
III) Altering and Adjusting Patterns
Sewing patterns come in predetermined sizes based on standardized body measurements. However, it is common for some individuals to require alterations or adjustments to achieve a better fit tailored to their unique body shape.
Learning how to alter patterns allows you to create garments that fit perfectly. Techniques such as lengthening/shortening pattern pieces or adjusting seam allowances can be utilized according to individual requirements.
Difference Between Industrial and Domestic Sewing Patterns
- Industrial sewing patterns do not have seam allowance marked on the sewing pattern.
- Generally, industrial sewing patterns are single-size flat patterns, while domestic sewing patterns are multi-sized.
- Industrial sewing patterns for manufacturing have fewer instructions because they are designed for a particular sewing method and fabric. (Such as jersey-knit using an overlocker and coverstitch machine)
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: How do I know which size to choose when selecting a pattern?
Choosing the correct pattern size usually involves comparing your body measurements with the size chart provided by the pattern. Measurements such as bust, waist, and hip circumference are commonly used. If you fall between sizes or have unique proportions, it may require some adjustments or blending between sizes to achieve an accurate fit.
Q2: Can sewing patterns be used multiple times?
Yes! Sewing patterns can absolutely be reused multiple times. Invest in quality tracing paper or Swedish tracing paper to preserve the original pattern and make future alterations easier. This allows you to create different sizes or variations of a garment without having to repurchase the same pattern.
Q3: Are the markings for jersey-knit patterns the same as those for woven fabric
Sewing patterns for kniited fabric usually have fewer instuctions. There is no grainline and knit patterns are not generally cut on the bias, so markings and symbols to show the grain are usually missing. Most patterns for knit fabric are cut with the stretch going around the body.
In conclusion
reading a sewing pattern can initially feel overwhelming due to the numerous symbols and specific instructions involved. However, with practice and patience, you'll gain confidence in deciphering these patterns effectively. Remember that each thorough examination of a sewing pattern brings you closer to creating beautiful and personalized garments.
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